ANJAR. AJRAKHPUR. BHUJODI.

We set out a whole day to travel to these three destinations as they all are close to each other with the farthest being 25km from Bhuj. We decided to start with the farthest town called Anjar. After reading about a bit of ruins in Anjar we got excited and left early to explore the place but were deeply disappointed to note there aren't any. Not the ones to give up we started scrutinising the market only to find the finest jooti's for affordable rates. We brought three pairs in one go!

The Rabari men wearing Balochistan frock-type kurta and Dhoti

These insane pyjamas are gathered at the waist and made out of 10 meters of fabric!

Later we wanted to know if the typical Kutch/Gujarati traditional menswear is available anywhere. After asking around we were directed to Khatri Market where only one store called Suraj Clothing which retails in selling these items. We bought the quintessential Lungi and the Balochistan frock-type top for ourselves. It was worth visiting the place.

Our next destination was Ajrakhpur. There are no proper directions hence stop and ask people the way.

Its a tiny village which is dedicated to the art of Ajrakh print making where the families stay and work. Dr Ismail Mohammed Khatri has been one such family who are in the business since eons and invites travellers to come stay, learn and shop from his workshop. Ajrakhpur is known worldwide for the art of Ajrakh, block printing uses colours derived from nature, such as indigo, henna, turmeric, pomegranate, iron and mud. In some cases, the fabrics are washed up to 20 times. Printing on both sides of the fabric is usually referred to as Ajrakh, the name is believed to be originated from the Arabic name Azrak that generally refers to blue. These printed fabrics are usually of blue colour with red and white pattern of designs, dyed with indigo and madder but of late they have started using variety of earthy colours and patterns. Kutch, district of Gujarat is one of India’s leading areas for block printing and dyeing. It is known for its variety of block prints with particular style of techniques is empowered by “Khatris” community.

Dr Ismail Khatri

We started to explore the workshop cum store for our purchase. You are literally spoilt for choice. From cotton to silk to tussar to linen and ranging from fabrics to saree to scarfs to kurtas to bedsheets to covers they have everything that one may ask for. We brought some loose fabrics. While paying the bill we discovered that their factory is just two blocks away, without wasting a minute we drove there to have a look.

Its a huge factory with many section such as washing, printing, dyeing, quality checking and final packing is carried out. There are close to 30 people, mostly men and young boys, working in the factory. As it was the lunch time and many were eating or resting we decided to do our own exploring bit and move out.

The main worry for the printers currently is the ever decreasing water levels. Water is vital for the printing process. Twenty years ago they relied on a nearby river, but it has since dried up. A well was dug but this has gotten deeper and deeper as the water levels go down. Besides the water a lot of child labour is put through the process which is disturbing.

After exploring the factory we headed straight to the highway leading towards Bhujodi. On the highway lookout at a roadside dhaba for the most delicious Gujarati thali. The best so far.

Bhujodi is a small village just 10km from Bhuj, was more or less one straight street with shops lined on either sides, nestled among them were the houses of the weavers itself. The beauty of Kutch is that where ever you turn there is art. Be it decorating a camel or the women folks dressing up or their houses painted with beautiful designs and mirrors shining on them; everywhere there is art and beauty. So you can imagine how awesome their designs will be. Its just magical.

Keep your eyes open as you will see many shops selling interesting stuff.

Mrs Vishram and his grand daughter

Vishram Bhai

His Store

We were lucky enough to visit the home of a national award winning weaver Mr Vishram Bhai who not only welcomed us but showed us the technique of weave. It was fascinating to see the technical moves that are impressive, the complexity and beauty of the machine leaves one speechless. All the lines, the regular movements, the thread and colours, complexity... create an atmosphere that is truly hypnotising! His son, although an engineer, is highly motivated and decided to join the family tradition by taking the craft on a higher level and started a shop to sell the products adjacent to the house. There are many such houses where you are free to go and spend time.

At the end corner of the village is HiraLakshmi Memorial park is made to preserve, restore and promote the arts of Kutch and making them accessible to masses. Its pretty nicely done up place consisting of water bodies with tiny cross over bridges and huts like stores selling clothes surrounded by lot of open green space to rejuvenate. Look out for the exact replica of 'Sansad Bhavan' Indian Parliament building called Vande Matram Memorial which is being constructed for locals and artisans to come and exhibit their goods. Insane i say!