Memoirs of Syed Ali Arif: Jodhpur: City In The Thar Desert

There is nothing much to do in Jodhpur or the Blue City of Rajasthan as compare to other cities, yet there is always something to discover if you are a true mad wanderer. Thats exactly what me and Inderjit did on our recent trip to J!

Sunrise by the Clock Tower overlooking Umaid Bhavan in the far vicinity

Lets get down to see what worked for us!

Clock Tower

First and foremost the stay! We booked ourselves into The Yogi Guest House (YGH) despite many people suggesting 'better places to stay', but we being we, did not backed out and I am oh-so-glad we didn't listen to any.

The guest house is not like your any-other hotel, its beautiful, well maintained and kitschy at the same time standing literally tall in the narrowest lanes of Manak Chowk (close to the Clock Tower (ghanta ghar) or Sardar Market the central market place in the city. Its a pretty incredible energy around the market, there is tons of stuff including clothes, vegetables, fruits, arty facts, restaurants and hotels to stay. Its always buzzing. Look out for Baba Emporium for all your typical Rajasthani clothing and fabric and textile shopping) meaning after a point you have to leave your rick and walk with your luggage to reach the hotel.

Mr Yogi is no more hence the place is now looked after Mr Yogi's wife and a well informed family friend Sachin. It's a three storey building with no lift and narrow stairs. Climb up to your room which is a good exercise bitches! Our room was well-lit spacious with the most dramatic sunrise view overlooking the clocktower. Everyday was different and magical. The only glitch was, there aren't any heaters in the room if you are staying during peak winters otherwise the rooms are equipped with a/c for summers. The place has a very well trained staff ready to help you with whatever you want.

Kitschy Yogi House reception

After having eaten and tried every restaurant in the vicinity, and trust me most of them are bad and expensive, we discovered how wonderful is theYGH restaurant. They serve almost anything and everything including freshly cooked and baked Pasta, Pizza, Indian, Chinese, Juices, Chai etc while you enjoy the 360 degree back view of the fort from the terrace. Definitely try their Jodhpuri Pulav and not to forget their breakfast consisting of bread, omelette, pancakes and juices. However on the downside they have a-policy of 'no outsiders are allowed into their restaurant unless you as a guest invite someone' which I felt was a big relief!

Sunsets by the Fort

Mehrangarh Fort

The best thing about this fort that its perched on a rocky cliff that can be seen from any vantage point in the city. There are two ways to reach the Mehrangarh Fort, either by road or walk. We opted for walk from our hotel. Although it was a 15 minute walk but felt almost half an hour due to up-hill trail through the narrow lanes.

The sleepwalk from Stepwell to the Fort

Finally you have arrived to the magnificent view of the fort, huffing and puffing, but ignore that. Its definitely worth walking to see this epitome of glory and grandeur which is arguably the largest forts of Rajasthan. Going by its name Mehr – Sun, Garh – Fort, its in every sense a Fort of Sun.

Interiors of Phool Mahal

Much has been written and said about this Fort so I am not gonna bore you further with the history however please don't miss the intricate Sheesh Mahal or art of Daulat Khana, the beautiful Moti Mahal or the golden Phool Mahal. Most of the fort is out of reach as the king's family still lives there. Having said that whatever is open to public will make you go 'wow'.

Entrance to the Fort

Chamunda Mata Temple

Later take a leisure walk towards Chamunda Mataji temple where the canons are placed, as after a point you get the feeling, however small, of walking the Great Wall of China. There is a small well-equipped cafeteria catering to your thirst and hunger along the way.

The gorgeous sun-kissed white marble Jaswant Thada

Jaswant Thada

Jaswant Thada is walkable distance from the fort but trust me after climbing up and down in the Fort you just want to sit down and have a heavy Rajasthani Thali meal, for which head to Gypsy Restaurant in town and come back to JT in the evening, an hour before the sunset.

JT is more like a well maintained garden with intricately crafted cenotaphs built in honour of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The place offers some incredible city + Fort view especially during sunset to take pictures, so plan your trip accordingly.

Inderjit strikes the pose at Mandore Temple courtyard

Mandore

Go here to explore the magical 'dewal' or temples of the Marwar family. Its little ahead of the main city hence carry enough water and tit bits to munch.

Check out the interesting architecture at the site

Fashion Shoot by the Step Well

Stepwell Area

Very interesting area to walk and look around. The are has many restaurants and brands including Good Earth, Raghavendra Rathore to name a few to explore. As it is the step-well makes a very interesting place to sit and unwind after a long day.

passage into the main Umaid Bhavan

Umaid Bhavan

yes you might only want to go because PC got married here. Unfortunately you wont gain entry into the main lobby as you don't stay there, so get ready to get a glimpse of the palace from the rear entry. Certainly one of the posh area around the Bhavan to explore.

What doesn't worked for us.

A Durry making demo by an artisan

Topping the list is the Bishnoi Village, its a tourist trap. When I say nothing, literally there is nothing to see and explore except the village is expanded in pockets and after a point you just want to get off from the dusty hot area. Hardly there are 2-3 artisans selling fabric or handicraft or durries. Nothing more nothing less. Don't get fooled by the agents trying to sell this sight.

Pottery making session

The Blue City close to Chand Pol is also a sort of let down. Baring very few none of the houses are blue any more. One need to just walk around the narrowest and filthiest lanes to reach some god forsaken terrace to see what you have already seen from Mehrangarh Fort. However you might like to just explore the alleys and get lost in Chand Pol as its interesting rather than looking for any spot to relax.