Thursday, August 4, 2011

Jama Masjid Iqbal-ud-Dowla











Although am not biased at judging against a Masjid to another because in the end its the house of Allah, but this particular one has to have a special mention. The Spanish Mosque (Jama Masjid Iqbal-ud-Dowla) on the Paradise-Old Begumpet Airport Road, and very close to my house in Hyderabad, is a striking mosque with unique plan elevation; it was built by Sir Vikhar-ul-Umra Iqbal-ud-Dowla, the Paigah noble, in 1906.

It is believed to be the only one of its kind in India, with pointed arches, a pointed main roof composed of two truncated octagonal pyramids placed one above the other intervened by octagonal domes. The minarets aesthetically placed at corners of the parapet are in the same style, very unusual from those seen in other mosques in the city and elsewhere. And it is difficult to miss them as you climb on (from Paradise side) to the flyover opposite the Airport.

A lot of debate has been done for its semblance to the architectural look and feel of a church!
The other notable features are Moorish arches inside the prayer hall, Quranic verses in exquisite calligraphy inscribed on the inside walls, the absence of an ablution tank and a courtyard. In plan, the mosque comprises a main prayer hall, two rooms in front of it and a central corridor for entering the hall. It is over this central corridor or the entrance porch that the octagonal dome stands.

The Spanish Mosque here formed part of the sprawling 340 acres of wooded estate of the Paigah nobles studded with seven palaces, all built in European and Indo-European styles. Some of them are the Paigah Palace or the Iqbal-ud-Dowla palace that has now become the Hyderabad Urban Development Authority's office, the Devdi Nazir Nawaz Jung, part of which has been leased to Chiraan Fort Club and the Vikhar Manzil, overlooking the Hussain Sagar Lake.

It is listed for conservation as a Grade II A structure, comprising buildings of regional or local importance possessing special architectural or aesthetic merit, cultural or historical value. They are the local landmarks contributing to the image and identity of the city deserving intelligent conservation and the regulation governing them allows adaptive reuse internally but external changes are subject to scrutiny. Yet the colour scheme of the mosque has been changed from pure white to pastel green in recent years.

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Hyderabad-E-Haleem!






Haleem is synonymous with Ramadan as it’s with Hyderabad. Originally considered to be an Arabic dish, made of meat, wheat flour, spices and ghee, it is said to have come to Hyderabad during the Mughal period via Iran and Afghanistan. It remained an integral part of Hyderabad due to the Nizam rule.

Over a period of time local influence brought in modifications and changes in the original recipe and made Hyderabadi Haleem distinct from other types of Haleem available today.

Although it is prepared in other cities of India (I had it in Mumbai and its just ok ok) as well during Ramadan but by and large the Hyderabadi Haleem remains the preeminent!

The conventional method of cooking Haleem is to cook on a low flame of firewood for 12 hours in a bhatti (a cauldron covered with brick & mud kiln). One or two men, usually, mix it thoroughly with large wooden sticks throughout its preparation, until it gets to a sticky-smooth consistency, similar to mashed mince.

Hyderabadi Hallem is a type of meat stew made from pounded wheat and mutton made into thick paste and served freshly hot with crispy fried onions and lemon juice. is equally popular with everyone just like its other dish, the Hyderabadi Biryani. It’s usually eaten during Iftaar.

Look out for the bhattis across the city, especially near/next to a masjid, besides accessible at assorted irani hotels.

The ones to look out for are: hotel 555, Sarvi, Pista House, Shah Ghouse and Shadab

Remember it’s AVAILABLE and CHERISHED in Hyderabad only during Ramadan.

Over a period of time the Haleem has gained its prominence as starters at Muslim weddings and other celebrations.

It is estimated that during Ramadan, Hyderabad eateries sell Indian Rupee symbol.svg 1 billion worth of haleem.

This is because Hyderabadis cannot survive Ramzan without Haleem. It is a matter of habit.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Magical Chowmahallah!




Since my childhood I used to question what lies at the back of those massive walls and a mammoth wooden gate. Chowmohala Palace was lock up for the longest time and somewhere down there I knew I will fall in love with this place once I see it.

And it happened in 2006. I was spellbound by its beauty. Enthralled by the huge courtyard. Dumbfounded by its construction. And I surely was in love. The palace is smartly filled with photographs of Nizam and his families (some very personal and rare pictures of him with his wives and childrens) including weapons they owned/used, books, kitchen ware, letters, coins, manuscripts, slothes, furniture and vehicles.

Chowmahalla Palace or Chowmahallat (4 Palaces), was a palace belonging to the Nizams of Hyderabad state. It was the seat of the Asaf Jahi dynasty and was the official residence of the Nizam.

Northern courtyard

This part has Bara Imam, A long corridor of rooms on the east side face the central fountain and pool that, once housed the administrative wing. and Shishe-Alat meaning mirror image.

It has Mughal domes and arches and many Persian elements like the ornate stucco work that adorn the Khilwat Mubarak. These were characteristic of buildings built in Hyderabad at the time.

Opposite to the Bara Imam is a building that is its shishe or mirror image. The rooms were once the used as guest rooms for officials accompanying visiting dignitaries.

Khilwat Mubarak

This is heart of Chowmahalla Palace. It is held in high esteem by the people of Hyderabad, as it was the seat of the Asaf Jahi dynasty. The grand pillared Durbar Hall has a pure marble platform on which the Takht-e-Nishan or the royal seat was laid. Here the Nizams held their durbar and other religious and symbolic ceremonies. The 19 spectacular Chandeliers of Belgian crystal recently reinstalled to recreate the lost splendor of this regal hall.

Clock Tower

The clock above the main gate to Chowmahalla Palace is affectionately called as Khilwat Clock. It has been ticking away for around 250 years. An expert family of clock repairers winds the mechanical clock every week.

Council Hall

This building housed a rare collection of manuscripts and priceless books.The Nizam often met important officials and dignitaries here.Today it is venue for temporary exhibitions from the treasures of the Chowmahalla Palace Collection that of a bygone era.

Roshan Bangla

The sixth Nizam is believed to have lived here and the building was named after his mother Roshan Begum.

The present Nizam (Barkat Ali Khan Mukarram Jah, Pretender) and his family decided to restore the Chowmahalla Palace and open it to the public in January 2005. It took over 5 years to document and restore the palaces of the first courtyard to its former glory.

I robustly suggest people visiting Hyderabad to pay a visit to this magic called, Chowmahalla Palace.

Regular Palace Timings for viewing: 10am -5pm

(Closed on Fridays and National Holidays)

Tickets: Indian Visitor - Rs. 30 and / International Visitor - Rs. 150

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Sacred Spaces





These are the focal devotion places of some of the main religions in the world.

1. Kaaba: Muslim. Saudi.

2. Golden Temple: Sikh. India.

3. Wailing Wall. Jews. Jerusalem.

4. St Peters. Christian. Rome.


Thursday, June 9, 2011

I owe it to Her and Him.




In 1982 I moved to a new school. All of 7 years old, my first lesson was ‘Art Class’ something I never heard of and was looking forward to.

In comes a plain looking, 5 feet tall, 50 plus, petite and fragile female teacher. She is Ms Ashraf Unnisa. After a brief introduction, she took a blue-color chalk and drew two umbrellas on the black board. One closed and another, open. This was my first encounter with an amazing world called ‘art’. I was stunned at her energy and clarity. I was obsessed about her and would talk about her to all my relatives and friends. I never missed her single class.

She could see my interest and in return took special interest in me. She guided me at every occasion. She taught me a lot about sketching, filling colors and shading. I used to paint with sketch pens as the color pencils and other material were not easily available.

She introduced me to the magical world of Colors, Imagination, Creation and Satisfaction.

I moved to another school in 1983 and lost touch with her.

Beyond doubt, I hope she is at peace, wherever she is right now and 'thank' her deep from my heart. Sadly I don’t have a picture of hers to share with you all.

I miss you Ashraf Teacher.

A decade ago, in 1993 I was introduced to a celebrated artist called M F Husain by articles and art document. I was too young that time to identify with this phenomena but his name had a miraculous effect on me.

I don’t remember which was his first painting that I came across, but what got entrenched on my senses is his authority on the medium. The usage of pen, watercolor, acrylic and of course oil is miraculous. The heavy yet confident strokes were his forte. His horses are like trademark. The symphonies were astounding.

I did try to copy him during my learning days but never got the life into them. He had his unusual style. I guess every artist should have.

Having born in a small village of Maharashtra on 17 September 1915, this man surely had his head firm on his shoulders. The struggle was surely there. The hard work was always upfront. What I truly like and respect him for, is his energy level.

Husain saab first became well-known as an artist in the late 1940s after painting a series of film posters. In 1947, he joined the Progressive Artists' Group, founded by Francis Newton Souza. In 1952, his first solo exhibition was held at Zürich and over the next few years, his work was widely seen in Europe and the U.S. In 1955, he was awarded the prestigious Padma Shree prize by the Government of India.

In 1967, he made his first film, Through the Eyes of a Painter. It was shown at the Berlin Film Festival and won a Golden Bear. I loved the film.

He is assumed to have not stayed at any place for more than 10 days! He is got dwelling in India, Dubai, London, USA and Middle East! And everywhere he travels, he paints and only paints.

For the longest time I thought he is from Hyderabad for the kind of love he showed towards the city and its culture. His Cinema Ghar was one place in Hyderabad I used to frequent a lot in a anticipation to meet my magician. And every time I missed him by a glance. I got enthralled looking at his work instead in the studio cum house in Hyderabad. And here I was introduced to his other passion, Cinema.

His first full featured film, Gaja Gamini was undeniably an extravagance to watch.

He went on to make Meenaxi: A Tale of Three Cities (with Tabu). This was one film of his, which is very close to my heart. It was very clear that this man, unquestionably, is a magician. Should check out the direction of one song Yeh Rishta Kya Kehlata Hai….it’s just excellent.

His autobiography is being made into a movie tentatively titled The Making of the Painter, starring Shreyas Talpade as the young Husain.

Husain Saab was always a controversial child. In the 1990s some of his works became hot-topic because of their portrayal of Hindu deities in the nude or in an allegedly sexual manner. The paintings in question were created in 1970, but did not become an issue until 1996, when they were printed in Vichar Mimansa, a Hindi monthly magazine, which published them in an article headlined "M.F. Husain: A Painter or Butcher". A series of cases were brought against him and a court case related to the alleged obscene depiction of Hindu goddesses in his paintings resulted in issuing a non-bailable warrant against Husain after he failed to respond to summons.

There were also reportedly death threats. The artist left the country stating that "matters are so legally complicated that I have been advised not to return home".

He took over the Qatar citizenship in February 2010.

For the last years of his life he lived in Dubai and London, staying away from India, but expressing a strong desire to return, despite fears of arrest. He died in a Royal Brompton hospital in London at 2.30 am on Thursday, June 9, 2011 following a cardiac arrest.

His achievements’ are not to miss. Today the art recognition that India got is all merited to Husain saab.

It will take me longest to digest the fact that Husain saab is no more and much longer than I consider to forgive India for losing him.

I shall honestly miss you Husain saab.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

The Heritage Hotel of Goa.






The Panjim Inn is a well restored Century old Heritage Hotel in Goa's Latin Quarter, Fontainhas, Panjim, and is now part of the WelcomHeritage Group, was discovered by me by chance, this month while strolling Goa with friends.

The hotel is just ‘wow’ and very affordable place for people looking for the ‘haveli’ feel to their stay.

There are 24 high ceiling bedrooms, 12 in the old house and another 12 in the Rebuilt section facing Rua de Ourem,with Modern Facilities Including Air-conditioning, Mini-Fridge, Cable Television and electronic safes in all rooms.

Each room is distinctly individual in Character with Period furniture including Four Poster Beds, Carved Rosewood Almirahs, and Art and Antiques being part of the furnishing and décor. An In House Art Gallery make for a perfect time spent.

A Comfortable Bed, Good Food and Drink, an Informal Warmth and Friendly and Caring Staff Soon make the Panjim Inn a Romantic Home away from Home!

Their tariff changes with season. Do check out in advance on their website.

Panjim Inn

E-212,31st January Road,Fontainhas
Panaji, Goa 403001
0832 2435628

http://www.panjiminn.com/

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Cut Out Obsession!





The south Indian film industry is the only one in the whole world which is infatuated beyond repair! I said repair because it’s the only industry where the actors are worshipped and treated like semi-gods by their fans.

From constructing temples to opening fan clubs and taking out rallies to support their films, the fans are fanatically mad for their super stars. It’s something that you don’t witness in any other film industry.

Mega Star. Matinee Idol. Victoty Venkatesh. Prince Mahesh are some of the choicest titles given to the stars by their loyal fans.

And the ultimate and the most apparent one is a hand painted cutout of approximately 100 to 200 feet of the actor during their film opening at the theatre, garlanded with pots and flowers! Unbelievable!

Presenting some glimpse from this obsession of Tollywood in Hyderabad.

Enjoy.



Horror!

In much of Indian cinema, horror as a genre has been reduced to camp, over the top, either too costumy or showing nudity, bad acting and ner...