Jodhpur: City In The Thar Desert

There is nothing much to do in Jodhpur or the Blue City of Rajasthan as compare to other cities, yet there is always something to discover if you are a true mad wanderer. Thats exactly what me and Inderjit did on our recent trip to J!

Sunrise by the Clock Tower overlooking Umaid Bhavan in the far vicinity

Lets get down to see what worked for us!

Clock Tower

First and foremost the stay! We booked ourselves into The Yogi Guest House (YGH) despite many people suggesting 'better places to stay', but we being we, did not backed out and I am oh-so-glad we didn't listen to any. 

 The guest house is not like your any-other hotel, its beautiful, well maintained and kitschy at the same time standing literally tall in the narrowest lanes of Manak Chowk (close to the Clock Tower (ghanta ghar) or Sardar Market the central market place in the city. Its a pretty incredible energy around the market, there is tons of stuff including clothes, vegetables, fruits, arty facts, restaurants and hotels to stay. Its always buzzing. Look out for Baba Emporium for all your typical Rajasthani clothing and fabric and textile shopping) meaning after a point you have to leave your rick and walk with your luggage to reach the hotel. 

Mr Yogi is no more hence the place is now looked after Mr Yogi's wife and a well informed family friend Sachin. It's a three storey building with no lift and narrow stairs. Climb up to your room which is a good exercise bitches! Our room was well-lit spacious with the most dramatic sunrise view overlooking the clocktower. Everyday was different and magical. The only glitch was, there aren't any heaters in the room if you are staying during peak winters otherwise the rooms are equipped with a/c for summers. The place has a very well trained staff ready to help you with whatever you want.

Kitschy Yogi House reception

After having eaten and tried every restaurant in the vicinity, and trust me most of them are bad and expensive, we discovered how wonderful is theYGH restaurant. They serve almost anything and everything including freshly cooked and baked Pasta, Pizza, Indian, Chinese, Juices, Chai etc while you enjoy the 360 degree back view of the fort from the terrace. Definitely try their Jodhpuri Pulav and not to forget their breakfast consisting of bread, omelette, pancakes and juices. However on the downside they have a-policy of 'no outsiders are allowed into their restaurant unless you as a guest invite someone' which I felt was a big relief! 

Sunsets by the Fort

Mehrangarh Fort

The best thing about this fort that its perched on a rocky cliff that can be seen from any vantage point in the city. There are two ways to reach the Mehrangarh Fort, either by road or walk. We opted for walk from our hotel. Although it was a 15 minute walk but felt almost half an hour due to up-hill trail through the narrow lanes.

The sleepwalk from Stepwell to the Fort

Finally you have arrived to the magnificent view of the fort, huffing and puffing, but ignore that. Its definitely worth walking to see this epitome of glory and grandeur which is arguably the largest forts of Rajasthan. Going by its name Mehr – Sun, Garh – Fort, its in every sense a Fort of Sun.

Interiors of Phool Mahal

Much has been written and said about this Fort so I am not gonna bore you further with the history however please don't miss the intricate Sheesh Mahal or art of Daulat Khana, the beautiful Moti Mahal or the golden Phool Mahal. Most of the fort is out of reach as the king's family still lives there. Having said that whatever is open to public will make you go 'wow'. 

Entrance to the Fort

Chamunda Mata Temple

Later take a leisure walk towards Chamunda Mataji temple where the canons are placed, as after a point you get the feeling, however small, of walking the Great Wall of China. There is a small well-equipped cafeteria catering to your thirst and hunger along the way.

The gorgeous sun-kissed white marble Jaswant Thada

Jaswant Thada

Jaswant Thada is walkable distance from the fort but trust me after climbing up and down in the Fort you just want to sit down and have a heavy Rajasthani Thali meal, for which head to Gypsy Restaurant in town and come back to JT in the evening, an hour before the sunset. 

JT is more like a well maintained garden with intricately crafted cenotaphs built in honour of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The place offers some incredible city + Fort view especially during sunset to take pictures, so plan your trip accordingly.

Inderjit strikes the pose at Mandore Temple courtyard

Mandore

Go here to explore the magical 'dewal' or temples of the Marwar family. Its little ahead of the main city hence carry enough water and tit bits to munch.

Check out the interesting architecture at the site

Fashion Shoot by the Step Well

Stepwell Area

Very interesting area to walk and look around. The are has many restaurants and brands including Good Earth, Raghavendra Rathore to name a few to explore. As it is the step-well makes a very interesting place to sit and unwind after a long day.

passage into the main Umaid Bhavan

Umaid Bhavan

yes you might only want to go because PC got married here. Unfortunately you wont gain entry into the main lobby as you don't stay there, so get ready to get a glimpse of the palace from the rear entry. Certainly one of the posh area around the Bhavan to explore.

What doesn't worked for us.

A Durry making demo by an artisan

Topping the list is the Bishnoi Village, its a tourist trap. When I say nothing, literally there is nothing to see and explore except the village is expanded in pockets and after a point you just want to get off from the dusty hot area. Hardly there are 2-3 artisans selling fabric or handicraft or durries. Nothing more nothing less. Don't get fooled by the agents trying to sell this sight.

Pottery making session

The Blue City close to Chand Pol is also a sort of let down. Baring very few none of the houses are blue any more. One need to just walk around the narrowest and filthiest lanes to reach some god forsaken terrace to see what you have already seen from Mehrangarh Fort. However you might like to just explore the alleys and get lost in Chand Pol as its interesting rather than looking for any spot to relax.

This man literally sits their at the Fort for people to click him

Close up of Jaswant Thada

Tradition meets Modernity

Care for Folk Music

None of the hotels or restaurants gives you local water to drink, so better buy and keep a good stock.

In my next series i will be presenting the THE TALKING TERRACE OF JODHPUR!

Chiran Palace Masjid

Masjid Chiran Palace, a design ahead of its time

This building has no support and the roof is suspended.

The Masjid Chiran Palace is in the middle of the Kasu Brahmananda Reddy National Park and is nestled amidst trees.

Yet, it is different, probably because it is like being in a mini-forest, with tiny birds whizzing past, peacocks screeching and dragon flies lazily shimmering over the murky waters of the fountain, where huge fish swim in great companionship.

This mosque is of a very different design. Apparently Mukarram Jah, grandson of the seventh Nizam, wanted to break away from tradition, especially when it came to design.

The cost of building this mosque came from the sale of brass utensils stored at King Koti palace and hence this mosque has another name, the Tamba Masjid. Not a touch of metal here, though. This masjid won the Intach award in 2012. Hyderabad state had a bold new generation of architects. One of the more prolific among them was Eric Marrott and he ran The Studio.

Marrott was chosen to execute the dream of the Nizam to “give a new dimension to religious architecture of the city.” It was a complete break away from tradition when Marrott created a structure which was all modern with new methods and materials, yet managing to interpret the basic tenets of Islam through his architecture.

The first impression is that this building has no support and that the roof is suspended. That could have been true because earlier it was open on the sides. Many devotees did not come here to worship, not much caring for the modern design.

It was literally public opinion which forced the Nizam to add side walls, but even this has been done delicately. The side walls are jalis, intricately carved and designed marble screens, allowing ventilation and light. They contain geometric designs which look like blossoming flowers. These designs are repeated at the ground level, where the entrance is covered with a small barricade, adding a little design to the otherwise blank entrance.

There is a fountain right in the front of the masjid, probably used for ablutions earlier on. The water is now green, and you can see an abundance of fish. 

The wazookhana or ablution place is on the side of the masjid, with granite stools in front of each tap.

Two graceful structures rise from the end of the fountain, representing the minarets of a mosque. There are spouts attached to the structure from where water used to fall in the centre with a tinkling sound, adding to the ambience of the place. The inside of the roof is beautifully designed, with interlacing beams, giving it a unique pattern. Even now, you realise that the roof does not rest on any wall or pillars in the centre. The load is taken by the arches from the ground level, both in the front and the back.

The Three Women!

Knowingly, unknowingly everybody in their life IS surrounded, nourished and inspired by women. However men, thanks to their ego at time, are unaware and don't acknowledge this. But I am not one of them. I am super proud to be known by my 'ladies' to say the least. 

I am dedicating this post to the Three most wonderful women of my life-journey. First and foremost is my mother, then my sister and finally my idol. They all in their own rights taught me many things about life, work, art, dedication and being your own person. Unfortunately today except for their teachings and love, I don't have any thing about them, not even them!

Ammi:

I am because of her. No more explanations needed here. Like everyone else, to me too, my mother was everything. The world. I think a child is more of a mother's part than a fathers, especially when they are still grown-up. I don't remember how and when we became friends or when I started singing and dancing unabashedly in front of her without the fear of being judged or scolded at. I don't remember when I started requesting her (it was more of a demand rather) to put that 'Allah' pendent in my neck every night before sleeping and religiously return it the next morning. I don't remember when I used to give crazy excuses to not to go to school and she would diligently trust them and let me have my way. But one thing I remember very clearly was her love for the family, including me and cinema. Yes my Ammi was crazy about Cinema! As a compensation to any little punishment she used to give me (because in her presence I was a spoilt brat) we would dress and go for a 6pm to 9pm show in Tirumala or Kamal (the nearby theatres in Malakpet, Hyderabad) and that, mind you, happens every third day.  I precisely lost count of how many films we had seen together. The last I think was Sunny Deol-Amrita Singh starrer 'Sunny'.

She introduced me to drama, emotions, music, love, laughter, tears and yes Sridevi.

Mummy was always very well dressed. She had around 150 to 200 sarees only. Or probably much more. She used to throw parties and get together at the drop of a hat. She loves having people around and yes like every mother, feed them. Oh how I miss her rice kheer. I always used to accompany her for grocery shopping before the parties. I clearly remember how she used to buy me a big packet of chocolates or biscuits from the corner shop right at the tip of the market (that will last for good 20 minutes) while she go inside the vegetable market near Gulzar Houz in Hyderabad to buy her stuff and precisely be back in sharp 20 minutes! She never used to take me inside the market fearing I might get lost. Although happy with my chocolates but personally for me those 20 minutes used to feel like a lifetime.

Here she introduced me to people and their needs.

My mother was very particular about maintaining relations. Despite the odds from her in-laws, she was very courteous to them and finally they all adored her to the hilt. She was the 2nd bahu of the house consisting of 5 men and 4 women.  Hailing from a relatively small family, she managed very well until my dad bought a new house and we started to live separately. I was born in 'our house' in Malakpet and my paternal grand parents lived in Bowenpally (precisely 15kms). It was a ritual that every Sunday Mummy, Daddy, Aapi, Asif Bhaiya and myself, sometimes our help Rehana hop into an auto to visit my Dadiyal. Yes you guessed it right it was always a party on Sunday for me meeting all my paternal side aunts and uncles and cousins.

She instilled the tradition of maintaining relationships with everyone oh-so-wonderfully.

Ammi was god-fearing but not religious as such. She always used to recite something and blow on everyone for their safety and good being. I was too young to remember Ramzaan with her but come Eid day and its a real festival. She always used to stitch white kurta-pyjama for Daddy, Asif bhaiya and me, and for herself and aapi get something made by a nearby ladies tailor.

I was introduced to the religion by her.

I lost her to cancer on 12th January 1984.

Aapi:

I was always fond of her but we actually got very close after we lost our mother. Asif bhaiya was more of 'his friends guy' and Daddy was busy with office and looking after the new house that we were building in Begumet so it was perfect timing for us to bond so much that years later, my niece, Zohra (Aapi's 2nd daughter) said, "you both, brother and sister, talk, think and do things alike'! How true.

I was called the 'shadow' of my sister. No matter where she goes, I am there with her. Shopping, eating, movies, visiting relatives and friends, I am there with her. A lot of Aapi's friends were inspired by us and used to 'force' their younger brothers to accompany them as well, but alas no one could create the bonding we had! She got our mother job in the Govt school as a clerk and I used to accompany her everyday during summer vacation. 

She introduced me to art. She was brilliant with her diagram and pencil shading and saved many of her school-college assignments, especially science for me to learn from them. Man I wasn't even close to 1% of what she use to draw. Her handwriting was something I was highly inspired by. It was just beautiful.

She taught me how to look after the house and Daddy (he really was missing mummy a lot but never showed), Summer holidays used to be fun with everyone. Soon after lunch, all four of us used to watch films on VCR. At times we had seen film till late in the nights. We had numerous variety of plants in the house and used to take turn to maintain them regularly. She was crazy about roses. There was an empty flat next to our house which had a huge jasmine plant. Every morning I used to pluck few and make them into a gajra for her to put in her hair while she leaves for the office. 

There was a local library in our colony to hire magazines for a day. I think thanks to my sister I have laid hands on every magazine from Savvy, Femina, Care, Society, Women's Era to Filmfare, Stardust, Movie, Cine Blitz. She was very good at reading and acquiring knowledge. She used to have a scrap book, which was full of Hema Malini and Rekha pictures and few notes. Obviously later she helped me built my own scarp book dedicated to  Sridevi. 

Then that day came, her marriage. I remember how I was speechless because I was choking with emotions on her wedding day and the thought that she is going to for leave us forever was making me hate her. I was completely lost!

There wasn't anything that she was not aware of when it comes to me. Although after marriage her priorities changed yet she kept tabs on everyones well-being, especially mine as I was growing into this moody teenager. Her love and emotion only grew stronger despite having her own family. I only drifted and moved to Mumbai after our dad's death in 2004. I think it helped all of us to grow individually stronger and independently.

She left all of us shockingly on 20th November 2017 to a sudden heart attack.

I am still coming to terms with this harsh reality. 

Devi:

 'Tohfa' was my first film of hers, which my mother took me to see. It was literally a gift for me from my mom. I was hooked to this magic that I was witnessing on the silver screen. It was love at first sight.

My mother being a movie buff, used to watch all sorts of movies and without saying I was her companion, so there was no escaping from films and mostly of Sridevi as she was dominating in the 80s.  Mawali, Justice Choudhry, Jaani Dost, Suhagaan we have seen them all together before my mother fell ill and left us. 

Sridevi was magic for sure but her real game changer was Nagina released in 1986. Her versatility was captured vastly. Despite being a women centric film it generated highest commercial success across the country. Just like her character in the movie, everyone was hypnotised by the charm of Sridevi turning into a icchadhari nagin with her big blue eyes! I was mesmerised. I remember when I forced Aapi to take to me to see Nagina, screaming all the way for not leaving the house on time and warned my sister that, "if the movie starts then I won't speak to you until you take me to the next show". Fortunately, we reached on time.

I carried a sketch book and painted every scene from the film to show it to my friends and family. They thought I was going crazy. Also during those times, for fans, there used to be something called 'postcards' in the market with your favourite stars picture on it. I had around 2000+ postcards of Sridevi to be precise! I even went ahead and made some 'Sridevi Special Pen Friends' wherein we used to discuss her life, choice of films and rivals!

Once again I was bowled over to see Sridevi as Seema and Seema as Charlie Chaplin in Mr India. I was frustrated with her as a journalist who hate kids, I was laughing with her when she discover Mogambo den, I was shocked with her to discover an invisible man, I was crying with her she she started feeling for those kids, I was dancing with her unabashedly to Hawa Hawai and every possible crazy emotion.

Chandni established her as a superstar and Chalbaaz as a 'no one can compete with her' bracket. I have seen all her films but Lamhe, Khuda Gawah, Gurudev, Gumraah and the fairytale Jagadeka Veerudu Athiloka Sundari where she played an apsara,  have been on 'repeat' mode for me.

Without fail I used to buy every film magazine which had her on their cover. I remember hunting for this new magazine called 'g' which had her with Amitabh on their inaugural issue. I remember paying Rs 100 for it in 1990 while the shopkeeper stared at me with shock.

When I used to fall sick, Aapi never used to take me to any doctor or get me any medicine. She knew Sridevi was my treatment. She used to hire a VCR and get video cassettes of her  films and needless to say, I would get 'better' in no time.

A lot of actors came and performed well, but I just could not see anything beyond Sridevi. She was like a soulmate, a family member, a role model that I almost worshipped!

It was shocking and beyond belief that she left me on 24th February 2018. So surreal!

Somewhere I have this strong feeling that all these Three ladies have met now and are smiling at me from up there!

Climax!

Lights. Camera. Action. Songs. Dance. These are the most synonymous terms associated with our Hindi films however there is something equally important that most of us overlook or take for granted, Climax!

Before you jump the bandwagon and shut the window, let me clarify that this climax has nothing to do with that climax. So clam your tits and read further. Here we will be talking about that one bad guy who has kidnapped the mother-father-family, planned to bomb the whole country or leave the country forever and having the last laugh in his den turned club setup, where the leading lady dancing to his tune to celebrate his imaginary success.

Note that our darling heroine is worthy enough to be a good singer and dancer. She is all decked up (don't pull your hair in discovering how and where that costume and accessories came from and how on earth did that fit her so well!?), with perfect disguise, steps, lyrics, catchy-music luring the nasty womanising villain into song and dance sequence, offering them alcohol (to make them weak) and making sure the hero reaches on time to kill the bad man and save the nation along with his family, and hello, save the damsel in distress, our seedhi-saadhi heroine herself! The story can be twisted and turned accordingly.

It is fascinating to see all the hard work behind this senseless but fascinating climax. In almost all the films the theme is same. The bad guy is almost winning the game but alas the hero comes and destroys his plans and ends the game.

There are many many such gems and it would be hard for me to pinpoint each and every one of them but I am just pointing out a few who has shaken my senses and also to show the variation!

Nagina: Main Teri Dushman....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txOeZmLBUDg

I have to start with this. Sridevi's as a snake-woman is revealed in probably one of the most well-choreographed and directed song by Saroj Khan, Music by Laxmi-Pyare from the 80s blockbuster Nagina. According to the film-pundits, the movie ran for 100 weeks single-handedly thanks to this climax song sung by Lata Mangeshkar and owned by the versatile stunning-looking Sridevi.

Note: besides the blue lenses taking the country by storm, the snake-woman drama had many actresses playing a part in choke-me-to-death story lines, however this film and song remain the best till date. Just watch the steps guys and you will know how much hard work has gone into it.

Tridev: Gajar Ne Kiya Hai Ishara.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1ujA6a_VPU

What a song! Beautiful Arabian-style costumes. Extremely well choreographed number with all the three girls Madhuri, Sonam and Sangeeta getting equal footage. Being a multi-starrer all the three heroines got together to sing-a-song while the three hero's are police-fighting to reach the 'den' to save them and yeah the planet!

Note: Amrish Puri probably was one of our best villain. Quirky. Fashionable. Fun and extremely ruthless.

Hoshiyaar: Ho ja Hoshiyaar....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIIg_CfmGNk

May not be very famous number but I have to mention it here for its sheer madness. While Jeetu and Shatru are struggling to fight the lions, the ladies, Meenakshi and Jaya are keeping 'charlisque' styled Shakti Kapoor and rape specialist Ranjeet busy with this heavy-duty African tribal inspired dance number. Both Jaya and Meenakshi are exquisite and exemplary in this song. Shows what excellent dancers both the ladies are. Hats of to them.

Note: Look for the African men jumping in the white cheeta inspired wall background. What an idea sirji!

Maqsad: Ajao Naagraja Aajao...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0A7H7l_Pt5o

What a plot, in the name of religion the bad guys, Prem Chopra, Khader Khan and Ranjeet uses the snake-pit to hide their chori ka maal including crores of money, jewellery and antique pieces. The snakes are apparently unknowingly safe guarding it up-till now when the good guys comes with their good girls for a 10 minute song and dance sequence and voila the snakes understands their wrong doing and leaves the treasure for the police to take over it. Phew!

Note: Sridevi's fascination with snake dance started from here for sure. asking the hero to be smarter after catching him red-handed

Ram Lakhan: Beqadar bekhabar bewafa balma....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pR0ZrfVKZWk

A typical Subhash Ghai film with one dozen goons, revenge plot, two hero's and their respective heroine's and of-course their dhukhiyari maa.

The climax song had Madhuri angry at Anil Kapoor for cheating on her, which later is revealed was a misunderstanding. While Ms Dixit is dancing heavily on drums and nagadas to show her anger with all dedication, the real good people outside the haveli, are planning a plot to capture Sir John (Raza Murad) who with his one-stoned-eye is eyeing the dancing diva as his future wife. Bad Man.

Note: Such a class! Such distinction! Madhuri's perfection and balance with superb expression throughout the song (no signature smiles no weird dance steps).

Loha: Teri Hasti Hai Kya....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbVbGTZuxWM

This heavy multi-starrer with Dharmendra, Shatrughan Sinha, Karan Kapoor, Madhvi, Mandakini and Amrish Puri had all the masala where the good guys are forced to work for the bad guys due to some contract. Obviously towards the end the bad guy refuse to acknowledge his promise and uses Jugal Hansraj to kill the good guys by tying them all together. The two damsels takes off to a well-choreographed song and dance number on the demand of the bad guy as he is aware of their talent, while the good guys plan a trick to out do the bad guy.

Note: Very Sholay-inspired set up of the bad guy den with rocks, open-space, waterfall and great costumes.

Desh Premee: Gore Nahi Hum kale Sahi....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EP7r05H7dyk

Oh god! Some fascination our Hindi film industry has with the whole African get up probably because its the hardest for any one to recognise you with shimmery clothes, boots, curly hair, dark makeup, black shades but singing in hindi! Amaze Balls!

I am still not sure what exactly is this location. A den or a club made to look like a den because one can see lots of diners enjoying the song and dance routine.

Not just people you will find things also being converted like being impressionist. The part that always cracks me up about this song is the fact the so called "transmitter" is nothing but a simple calculator!!

Note: There are two Amitabh's in the song. Hemaji seems to be enjoying the song to the hilt. And the other guy is none other than Prem Chopra, who surprisingly is a good guy in the film.

Amar Akbar Anthony: Title and climax song.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GhGq7db9v0

All the Amitabh starters has the same theme. Lost and found. Three or two brothers lost in a running train where in the father is gone missing and the mother is turned blind. The bad guy who is the culprit is still alive and by the grace of satan doing well for himself, until the three brothers finds each-other and decides to take revenge. The three girlfriends are always handy to help them catch the culprit. It amazing to see the make-believe-tale again and again.

Note: based on their religion all the three guys and their respective girls are dressed up in traditional attire. Superb!

Hero: Mohabbat yeh Mohabbat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6YQv1fCU4M

The heroine is kidnapped (yet again), the good guy is tied, the bad guy is planning a naught night with the girl, the good police uncle in disguise and the hero all wounded is riding his bike at the speed of 150KM/h reaching the island on time to save the girl and become the hero!

Note: Sanjeev Kumar is so cute.